This creates interference that stops the targeted device from working properly.

I am a huge fan of using 555 timers to create interesting electronic circuits. They are cheap, easy to find, and they are incredibly fun to experiment with. Recently I decided that I wanted to build a Wi-Fi jammer so that I could play pranks on my friends by knocking them off the internet or messing with their GPS signals. Building a jammer is actually quite simple, but you have to be careful because there are also a lot of ways that you can mess it up and make it not work properly. A typical jammer works by emitting interference into the frequency used by most devices in order to communicate wirelessly. This creates interference that stops the targeted device from working properly. There are many different types of jammers, but for this tutorial we will focus on building one that targets Wi-Fi signals specifically (although it can also target Bluetooth if needed).

One key lesson that I learned when making the jammer is that you have to choose a frequency that is not used by any services in your area. If you choose a frequency band which is being used by other devices, then your jammer will also interfere with them and render them unusable as well.

The frequency band for this particular device was between 800MHz and 900MHz because it's free of any existing network interference from Wi-Fi or cell networks (which are normally around 2GHz).

These devices are legal to have and use as long as they aren't used with the intent of obstructing radio communications.

This tool is legal to have, but not to use with the intent of obstructing radio communications.

It's important to note that these devices are legal to have and use as long as they aren't used with the intent of obstructing radio communications.

This is the breadboard that I am going to be using to build my jammer on.

A breadboard is a device that has a grid of holes in it, connected with metal strips and used to make connections between electronic components. It's usually used for testing circuits before they are soldered into place.

The breadboard I am going to be using for this project looks like this:

The 555 is a timer chip and has 8 pins, but I only want to use 6 of them. Pins 4 and 8 are connected externally to +V and GND so I have only 6 pins left. The pinout for the 555 is as follows:

The pot is a variable resistor that can be used as a volume control. The pot is also called a potentiometer, which sounds more technical than it really is. Think of the pot as an adjustable faucet in your kitchen sink, where you can turn the water on and off. The open end represents no resistance, while the closed end represents maximum resistance. A pot works on similar principles: when you turn the knob from one side to another, this increases or decreases how much current flows through it based on how much resistance there is at any point along its length.

The antenna is the part of your 5g jammer that transmits the signal. You’ll need to connect it to pin 1 of your transistor, which should be labeled “ANTENNA.” The idea here is to have as long of an antenna as possible, but not so long that it interferes with other devices in your area and causes problems for them too. Ideally, the antenna should be as close to the ground as possible—you don't want it too high up because then it might pick up signals from other sources such as cell towers or satellites instead of just sending out signals itself!

You should know that pin 5 of the microcontroller is connected to the base of a TIP 122 high-speed switching transistor, which is in turn connected to pin 2 of your computer’s USB port. This creates interference that stops your computer from working properly.

This connects the collector to ground, but more importantly it also connects the collector to the emitter. This creates interference that stops the target device from working properly.